March 8, 2004
By Philippa Garson
WHEN Joe Slovo was held at Johannesburg's Old Fort prison, now part of Constitution Hill, warders queued to seek legal advice from him in his "Chambers". In the prison setting this was the toilet - the only private place for white males. Black males had no such privileges - their toilets were located in the middle of their cells.

Inside the Old Fort, jail for white men
This is one of many fascinating anecdotes about the Old Fort's history that a group of keen young tour guides were imbibing this week in preparation for the big day - 21 March, Human Rights Day - when Constitution Hill opens to the public.
Over the past five months the group of 15 tour guides has been on an intense learning curve, preparing to tell the thousands of visitors expected about the 80 years of brutality witnessed by Johannesburg's Old Fort prison complex, about the country's miraculous transition to democracy and the evolving culture of human rights, about the challenges facing the future …
This week the young guides were being put through their paces by Mark Gevisser, content adviser for Constitution Hill's heritage education and tourism team. The group, consisting of 12 tour guides and three education officers for school tours, has already been in training for five months, completing basic tour-guiding courses as well as focusing for the past three months on Constitution Hill.

Tour guides catch a view from the ramparts
Their challenge will be to get visitors, both local and foreign, interested in the country's liberation history and in the very building where human rights are being safeguarded every day - the Constitutional Court. Their task is immense in a society that has begun to take both its liberation history and its much-envied Bill of Rights for granted.
"Johannesburg doesn't have a culture or populace that visits heritage sites or museums. It's not something they usually consider doing at the weekend with their family or friends," says Tshepo Nkosi, spokesperson for the Johannesburg Development Agency, the body responsible for Constitution Hill.
But there will be plenty to draw visitors - 120 000 are expected this year alone - to the R492-million precinct, which forms part of the inner city regeneration project and the cultural arc of Johannesburg, stretching from Newtown, across Mandela Bridge through Braamfontein to Constitution Hill.
Comments Nkosi: "At Constitution Hill we have created an international tourist destination that gives communities the opportunity to come up with innovative ideas and services to tap the tourist rand." Sections of the prison complex - comprising the awaiting trial prison; Number Four and Five for black male prisoners; the Old Fort, the white male prison; and the women's gaol - have been preserved and are being transformed into museum and exhibition spaces.
Masses of photographic, audio and video material has been put together by Constitution Hill marketers Ochre Media to capture the rich heritage of the site and tell the stories of the many famous and infamous prisoners held there - from rebel Boer leaders to Mahatma Gandhi to Nelson Mandela to serial murderer Daisy de Melker to the Foster Gang to the many ordinary people held every day under the inhumane pass laws. Former prisoners from the Old Fort have also recreated blanket and soap sculptures similar to those made by the prisoners.

View from the ramparts
The Constitutional Court, an artwork in itself, and the impressive selection of contemporary artworks it houses, will also be a major draw card for tourists.
As will the children's interactive museum, restaurant, hotel, library and shops and offices set to open there.
But much of the attraction lies in the prison buildings themselves: a walk around the Old Fort brings one eerily close to the turbulent and disturbing history embedded in its dark cells. From the ramparts one has a breathtaking 360-degree view of Johannesburg, of its old and new parts and those parts under construction. Constitution Hill captures all of this - the country's brutal struggle history, the transition to democracy and the forging of the future - in one place.
For several of the tour guides, acquainting themselves with Constitution Hill and the prison complex has been part of an important personal journey, given that their parents and relatives were held here. Says Dorah Molefe: "It's been very important for me. My father was arrested here in 1958 under the pass laws. I knew all about it but I didn't know what the place was like. I thought it was a hole. It's been important for me to learn about what happened then and link it to today."

Dorah, Mkumzi and Clement
It is no surprise that Molefe imagined the prison as a hole: over the years it was referred to as "Ekhulukhuthu", the deep hole, by those who experienced the terrible conditions in Number Four.
Mkumzi Nkabinde, a lesbian activist and sangoma, says learning about the prison "has been a wonderful experience. We've always been told about the Old Fort in black culture - my uncle and grandfather were held here - but we never knew what it was really like. "
She is also looking forward to telling tourists about a Bill of Rights that ensures that homosexuals are not discriminated against. "We will have tourists who are homosexuals and they should not be afraid of coming here," she says.
For Clement Masemola, ending up as a tour guide for Constitution Hill is the natural culmination of his work with Wits University's History Workshop project. His job there was to gather oral history from Alexandra residents and of course "Ekhulukhuthu" cropped up many times. "I felt myself caught in the spell of this place. I wanted to find out more."
Tours around Constitution Hill start on 1 May. There will be no extra charge over and above entrance fee, which is R15 for adults, R10 for pensioners and R5 for children under 12. Before 1 May visitors may view exhibitions at Constitution Hill for free. Tours will leave every half an hour from outside the Visitors Centre on Constitution Square. To book call 274-5300.
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